Skiers and boarders have woken up to the fact that Lech-Zürs am Arlberg is the snowiest A-list resort in the Alps. Zürs gets close to ten metres on average every winter season -double the average of Val d’Isere-, and Lech manages a still-impressive seven metres. Is Lech-Zürs the Eldorado of deep powder? The Arlberg Ski Area is famous around the world as a destination for serious skiers, and Lech is a key part of it. Lech-Zürs is an excellent place for beginners and intermediates with perfectly maintained slopes to flatter the egos of the discerning guests who ski here. In terms of pisted terrain, it is not particularly a top-destination for experts. However, the opposite is true for opportunities in un-tracked free-nature skiing!

From scenic routes to tempting off-piste itineraries

Beginners are well catered for with wide, perfectly groomed pistes and world-class ski-tuition. The Flühen lift, situated near the church in Lech, leads up to the gentle slopes where the ski schools operate. More confident skiers can explore the easy blues at Oberlech. Both sectors provide scenic routes in-between patches of lovely forest which also makes it a good shelter on days with poor visibility.

Eldorado of deep powder
View from Trittkopf on the Flex Pass

Although Lech and Zürs cover all the levels, prepared runs favor the intermediates on up. Lech and Zürs has the best of the Arlberg’s intermediate level skiing, with well over 50 percent of the slopes suited to all types of progressive skier. The Madloch side of the valley has six long intermediate runs. Countless opportunities open up via the central Schlegelkopf or Schlosskopf lifts. From the other side of Lech centre you can access the slopes of Zürs via the Rufikopf lift. The more challenging runs are to be found at the Zürs end of the area, on the Kriegerhorn and Zuger Hochlicht. There are varied rapid reds on the White Ring circuit from Madlochjoch down to Zug. Other favourites include runs from the top-station of the Steinmahderbahn in Lech.

While there may be few really challenging black-rated patrolled runs -as opposed to neighbouring Sankt Anton-, there is a wide selection in very tempting off-piste itineraries that are among the best in all Europe. Advanced skiers and snowboarders are in paradise at Lech and Zürs. They can access well over 180 kilometres of challenging off piste terrain. The best thing: you won’t encounter the crowds like for instance in Sankt Anton, Alpe d’Huez or Chamonix.

View on Lech

Prime destination for free-nature skiing

Don’t be fooled into thinking Sankt Anton is your main option in the Arlberg region for free-nature skiing. Lech-Zürs is where you’ll find some of the best off-piste skiing in the Alps. In particular the mountains at Zürs are mainly devoid of trees which has the advantage of being able to access more terrain.

Superb off-piste skiing in Lech Zurs
Muggengrat sector

Many of the best runs in Lech start from the top of the fast Steinmähder chair, which finishes just below Zuger Hochlicht (2377m). Some routes involve a short climb to access bowls of untracked powder.

From the nearby Kriegerhorn there are shorter off-piste runs down towards Lech and a very scenic long ski route down to Zug. Most runs, however, are south- or west-facing and can suffer from sun.

Rüfikopf, on the opposite side of Lech, is famous for it’s steep slopes. Take the large cable car to the Rüfikopf and then a 30 minutes hike to the Rüfispitze.

In Zürs you will find the the Steirloch, Madloch steep slope, the Stierfall or the Trittkopf. The Steirloch is lovely option from the top of the Madloch-Joch chair, which starts with a narrow couloir and eventually descends into the charming Zug village. Another example is the Flexenmulde from the top of the Trittkopf bahn at 2423m, with a traverse towards the Rauz slopes. There are lots of steep couloirs in this area, and descents down into Stuben from where you can connect to the Sankt Anton sector.

The Zurs Gams route off the top of the Muggengrat chairlift provides lots of challenging routes. The entry is narrow and steep, but beyond there are plenty of downhill options. The route ends up near the tunnel between Lech and Zürs and you have to get a bus back to a chairlift.

Lech Zurs

At the end of the season, when the snow is deep and settled, the off-piste off the shoulder of the Wöstertäli from the top of the Rüfikopf cable car down to Lech can be superb, as can Zuger Hochlicht.

The tourist board of Lech-Zurs and the ski schools actively promote responsible free-nature skiing. If you like to do some serious off-piste skiing please inform yourself of the current snowcondition and weather. Moreover, always use a helmet and rescue backpack which includes an airbag and an avalanche beeper. The ski schools can assist you with the hiring of a guide.

Powder guaranteed!

Lech-Zürs is the snowiest major ski area in the Alps with the sort of annual average snowfall to rival the North Americas top-rated skiresorts. It appears to have it’s own special micro-climate that sees it receiving nearly double what nearby Sankt Anton gets. Powder is pretty much guaranteed from the end of November until the end of April, even at lower altitude. The ski area has a long season by Austrian standards. Skiweather.eu ranks Lech-Zürs 10/10 based on snow reliability and skiing conditions (historical snow data).

Woods around Lech

For more information on Lech-Zürs please visit the tourist board or visit one of the top-class ski schools

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Saint Gervais is a well established spa town that has been welcoming skiers for over 80 years and its proximity to Geneva airport – less than an hours drive – is ideal for short stay ski holidays. Despite its proximity to Mont Blanc and the popular Chamonix, it is not a very well known resort, probably due to the fact that no major tour operators go there. The ski area Saint Gervais – Megève itself is not big, but it’s Evasion Mont Blanc lift pass covers six ski areas comprising over 450km of prepared slopes, as well as some easily-accessible off-piste areas.

Saint Gervais is a pleasant place that makes it a cheaper alternative to staying in Megève, and a good base for exploring nearby resorts.

Located across from Mont Blanc, it is the highest town in France and Europe because Mont Blanc’s peak is located inside its territory. The village disposes of the most extreme difference in altitude in Europe: from 580 to 4810 metres.

One resort, two ski areas

Taken together with Megève, Saint Gervais offers skiers of all levels, although intermediates in particular, plenty of terrain to choose from. Most of the pistes are classic trails cut through the woodland, many with wonderful views over to Mont Blanc. The highest pistes on Mont d’Arbois are above the tree line however and are wide, open snow slopes.

Families will normally enjoy the unhurried nature of Saint Gervais and there are some good facilities off the slopes as well as plenty of family-friendly terrain on the mountain with a predominance of chair and gondola lifts you can all ride together. The childcare facilities are good too.

Beginner ski school classes meet in the ski school’s chalet at le Bettex, which is reached by a fast, easy to ride gondola from the edge of the resort. Le Bettex is a good learner’s area with several excellent nursery slopes with their own lifts. There are some good green and blue runs to progress on to once you’ve mastered the basic skills.

Most people take the high capacity gondola that whisks skiers and boarders from the edge of the resort up to the heart of the resort’s local skiing at Le Bettex on Mont d’Arbois, shared with neighbouring Megève on the other side of the mountain. Carrying on to the other side of Megève you reach the Rochebrune and Jaillet ski areas shared with the villages of Combloux and La Giettaz. A cable car connects the bases of Mont d’Arbois and Rochebrune.

Perfect for intermediates

Beginners can pick up the basics on the nursery slopes in Le Bettex, and have some incredible greens and blues to build confidence from Mont d’Arbois. Chateluy is a confidence boosting 4km trail back to Le Bettex, which might look a little steep at the top but once you’ve zig zagged down the first bit, it’s gorgeously varied with a fantastic powdery stretch between the trees. Another fabulous run is the Ideal-Mandarines which ends up at the Megeve golf club. La Finance, a lovely long blue, is a favourite run back from Mont d’Arbois. It is lined by thick forest and great for building up a rhythm. More blues worth skiing include the sunny Prapacot, which links to green le Plan or blue Encraty down to La Princesse.

Saint-Gervais boasts loads of ideal intermediate terrain directly above the town on Mont d’Arbois and Mont Joly, with long reds and blues. Some of the best intermediate runs are a swathe of reds very local to Saint Gervais up above Le Bettex, and a ski run back down to the village is also graded red. Heading across to Megève, Rochebrune is an excellent area for intermediates while Combloux and La Giettaz across the valley are blissfully quiet.

It’s mixed blessings for expert skiers who have rather limited options close by the resort. There are 17 black slopes adding up to more than 40km of steep piste. Mont d’Arbois accesses a handful of black runs like Princesse; an absolute joy to blast down. For a sharper gradient, try the Chamois from Mont Joly. Where the expert offerings really rule here is off piste, with some incredible powder runs on open fields and between the trees – head to Mont Joly and down to Saint-Nicolas for some of the best of it. The Marmottes run from L’Epaule towards St Nicolas is challenging but is sometimes closed due to avalanche risk. The Grand Chamois is a steep black run, that can be fantastic on powder days but nerve wracking when the snow is not so friendly. The ski school and mountain guides will be happy to take you to the region’s many off-piste assets. In the Rochebrune sector Cote 2000 is the venue for World Cup races.

On-mountain dining to a higher level

There’s a huge choice of on-mountain dining in the region of Saint Gervais, with more than two-dozen restaurants spread across the various sectors. The majority are small to mid-sized locally-owned establishments and there’s a higher proportion of table-service establishments than you’ll normally find, for which it’s advisable to book a table in advance if you can.

At Le Bettex at the base of the slopes both Causettes and La Coterie are both good. The former has table service and a good terrace with wonderful views, the latter with favourite French and Savoyard dishes and a good choice of grilled meats. La Fleche d’Or nearby is also good and serves traditional cuisine in a lovely wooden restaurant or out on the terrace.

Getting there

Direct trains run from Paris to La Fayet. La Fayet train station is 5km from St Gervais from where there is a free shuttle bus service into St Gervais itself. The nearest airport is Geneva (1 hour) which can be accessed by bus or ski transfer company. We had a great experience with Cham-Van. Chambéry Savoie Mont Blanc is about 1hour 15mins.

Hire the latest award-winning 2018 skis from rental chain Intersport, including touring skis, powder skis and the new Nitro Q Series retro snowboard shapes. All from www.intersport-rent.fr/en/

The Intersport shop at the midstation of Le Bettex is very conveniently located.

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